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Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Pearls of Provence: Stone Houses at Evenos

One of the nicest things about living in Provence, out of a heck of a lot of nice things, is the proximity to beautiful villages that seem untouched by time. By traveling less than half an hour, you can leave the hustle & bustle of modern life behind and find yourself smack-dab in front of a stone house that reads Built in 1765.  Such was our Saturday afternoon, and such was the incredibly lovely "hamlet" of Evenos in Provence.

[View from Evenos facing Toulon]
About a 20-minute drive from Toulon, and made literally out of a collection of stone houses which overlook the ruins of a castle, this small village has stunning views of Mount Caume (the highest of the region) and is one of those off-the-beaten-path "hidden gem" villages that Provence seems to be famous for...or at least that's what I seem to be discovering about every other weekend.

[Exploring the town]

[Quite a nice spot to call home]
The thing that really strikes me about places like Evenos is that you won't find these uncommonly pretty villages in most guidebooks (at least the four biggies I consulted at home).  I guess they're too small, probably dwarfed by local favorites like Aix-en-Provence, but if you're looking for the real Provence profund - getting really, really deep into the Provençal experience that is - look no further than a host of superb villages you can find through sites like Provence Verte ( 
[Another lovely, ivy-covered home]
And of course places like Evenos aren't just collections of old houses and crooked, stone roads, they're lively places as well.  For our late Saturday-afternoon apéro, we wandered down the main street (or maybe that was the only street) in town and practically stumbled onto someone's terrace garden.  

[Great colors for fall]
Except it wasn't just someone's terrace, it was someone's home that just happened to serve heaping cheese plates, homemade patés, and chilled white wine during the tourist season. Oh, and there just happened to be a few pirates.

[Ye road to the town castle]

[One of many beautiful town doors]
Well, men dressed as pirates enjoying a few glasses with us on the terrace. Neither of us had the courage to ask, and frankly, it all seemed quite normal in context. A stones throw from the town castle and all... and thankfully, they were just ending their rounds as we were starting ours, or it might have been a completely different kind of afternoon in Evenos.


  1. Pirates and apéro, yep, sounds about normal for this part of the world :-)

  2. Oh how I miss Provence!

    You're so right: these lovely little villages are treasures and worth a visit. D and I love off-the-beaten-path treks. Will have to add Evenos to our list. Gorg photos as usual!

  3. I LOVE it!! Love that you had a pirate sit with you and you never asked why. :-) Love these gorgeous homes and lovely foliage. :-)

  4. I love this! The little village I'm moving to is just like this. I think it's weird there are many tour guides that mention the smaller villages. Even if they don't go into much detail, it'd be nice to at least know they exist and are worth a day trip.

    Love the pictures! Glad you had a wonderful day!

  5. Yes, those small villages that appear out of nowhere...
    Thanks for the great images!

  6. Merci for the super comments ladies!
    I know, it's pretty wild that you can find so much beauty in these small villages..& even wilder some of the characters you can meet there.
    This last outing was quite the funniest yet..felt like we stepped into a page of "A Year in Provence" when we ran into those pirates!
    But you're right Sara, totally fits for this part of the world & don't think we'd have it any other way :) xx

  7. It's almost like a step back in time. I love it!

    No photos of pirates enjoying an apero? :)

  8. Thanks Corinne! I know, thinking of going back to see if they're town regulars...or could just be marauding Toulon rugby fans, lol.. Prefer the not knowing, certainly makes the story more entertaining :) xx

  9. this sounds like a cuento de ada. Such an amazing place, surrounded by untouchable houses, and warming gardens, and to top of it, there were Piratas?, what? thank you for transporting me once again :)

  10. Oh Kenya, how I miss you!
    Thanks for the sweet comment and hope one day you will come visit so we can be "transported"'s just a short drive from our casa, so putting it on the list & getting your room ready bella :) xo

  11. Really nice. We have quite a few properties advertised in this part of the world - Property In France